Entrance to Ballandra
Loreto Directory and Information Center Loreto - Baja Life Online

As with all of the towns we have visited on Baja, Loreto has it's own unique charm. Unfortunately, there is no protected anchorage at Loreto, so if you are planning an overnight stay, Isla Carmen has several good anchorages and is only a short sail from town. We anchored at Puerto Ballandra and approached from the north. From this direction the cove is a bit more difficult to spot than from the southern approach. The best landmark is a tiny islet called La Cholla, slightly to the west of Carmen. It has a small navigation light, which was working when we arrived, to help guide us in. There is also a thumb shaped rock sticking up at the entrance to the cove, so between the two, we managed to find it. There are shallow shoals along either side of the entrance, so it is necessary to enter Ballandra straight down the middle.

Ballandra at sunset

Loreto has a small man made harbor. It is really too shallow for sailboats to enter, but if you are planning to spend any time in Escondido, Isla Carmen, Isla Danzante, etc., you must check in with the Port Captain in Loreto. We anchored north of the harbor and the waters were quite shallow, then took our dinghy into the harbor and tied off at the dinghy dock. The Capitania de Puerto's office is one block in from the beach. Unlike San Carlos on the mainland side, or Mulege on the Baja side, you cannot do your check-in at one office. You must go to both the Capitania de Puerto and the immigration office, which is at the airport several miles away (about mid-way between Loreto and Puerto Escondido). We had to take a taxi there, and had the driver wait. Be sure to negotiate the fare prior to leaving, because the rates vary from driver to driver. Make certain you have ample blank dispatchos. When traveling, they want three copies for each destination.

Gas, water and diesel fuel are easily obtainable in Loreto, but since there is no marina and taxi's are not permitted to carry full cans of fuel, you will need to find a ride in a truck back from the Pemex station in town, which is quite close. Propane is not available here at all. The closest available source is Constitution, which is about 1 ½ - 2 hours away, almost to the Pacific coast of Baja. There is a large well-stocked supermarket in Loreto, as well as a wide variety of shops. The merchants on the coast are friendly, and more than willing to call a taxi for you. Alejandro's Sport Fishing called once for us, and Chili Willi's did another time. By the way, Chili Willi's sits right on the beach near the harbor, has a beautiful view (we anchored our boat opposite it), a playground on the beach next door for the kids, and a very unusual menu. The food is terrific! They will also prepare any fish you catch for you to eat in the friendly ambiance of their restaurant.

The Loreto Mission - click on the plaque for info

Loreto is rich with Spanish history and culture. The Mission Nuestro Senora de Loreto Concha was the first Spanish mission in the Californias. Dating back to 1697 with the arrival of Padre Juan Maria Salvatierra, Loreto is the oldest continuously inhabited town on Baja, as well as the capital of the Californias until 1829. It was at this time that a hurricane destroyed most of Loreto, and the Spanish relocated the California capital in La Paz. At that time, Loreto began a gradual decline. It has, however. seen a rebirth since the 1970's, when the main highway through Baja was completed.